No modifications what so ever, Default settings at 0.15 with 210 extruder temp and 55 bed temps, skirt only.

If you want to use it as a workhorse printer, day in and day out, with immediate support from the manufacturer if needed, forget about it. Overture PLA and PETG come in 6-paks that only cost $14 CDN or roughly $12 per spool. About 3 weeks of frustration.

Do the cable ties up enough to hold it but they should still be adjustable. Thats a maybe, a question for my future self LOL. This can lead to the electronics being submitted to more heat than would be preferable. At that point, Anycubic support indicated that they had to import the carbon fiber FROM China TO the US to fabricate the arms (!!!) Large Build Volume A large build area for your 3D-printed creations :192mm(L)*120mm(W)*245mm(H) When I told them to cancel the order (because I had grown frustrated enough to build my own Mag Ball replacements by that point), miraculously my order was on its way, complete with a tracking number (which didn't work), and indeed my order arrived today! Good point on the aluminium base and the heat issues - I think i will revamp the complete print head. Not only are they anodized, they are hard anodized. We have a few Wanhao i3 derivatives, our friend in the UK now has an Original Prusa i3 which is so good - but it is too small to build several things the way we want.

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If you see any areas (even tiny specks) which aren't black, then you're impacted. Any alternative suggestions, folks? If you're handy, consider diy, or the predator. Separate projects - the flexy is for my wite's crafting needs, the tall-but-not-that-wide is for optmised rotor blades.

Kind of. Merry Christmas to all, and to all, a good print! I am of the opinion that of the many files I have downloaded and printed the finish is not all down to the printer as some are fantastic while others have salmon skin issues etc. How does the story end?

Given the painted rail issue recently reported, and my own experience with the total lack of support from Anycubic, I would avoid their printers, unless you are willing to compensate their very low price with a lot of dollars and time in upgrades, with the skills and specialized tools to do them. That's right, the main processor is not flashed in the normal fashion using an Arduino IDE, or anything like that, but directly by "printing" g-code to the processor, and saving it.

The corners weren't well made; I had to cut down the edges that were preventing the base from laying flat.



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